FAQs

One of the characteristics of 3mm stoneware slabs is how easy it is to work with. The material is easy to cut to shape and drill with automatic machines and tools for working glass and porcelain stoneware.
Glass cutting tools, k-blade or the traditional diamond cutters can be used for cutting.

It is possible, but you should first make sure that the existing flooring is stable and that the surface is perfectly flat. You will need to sand the upper surface down to raw wood.

Recommended adhesives: Class R2 adhesive (e.g. Keralastic Mapei) or R2T (e.g. Superflex Kerakoll)

Before applying stoneware slabs on top of old material, whether this is terracotta, stone, marble or PVC, you must check the strength of the bottom substrate.
The existing material and the place where it is going to be laid must be dry and stable, with a perfectly flat surface free of any loose pieces which could affect the adhesion of the stoneware slabs.

To check the flatness, use a rule that is at least 2 m long and place it on top of the old flooring, in all directions. You may need to use a self-levelling product to flatten the surfacet.

All traces of oil, fat and wax should be removed by washing with water and caustic soda, followed by thorough washing. Chemical cleaning is not possible, only mechanical abrasion.

Yes. Stoneware slabs is an extremely versatile material and is ideal for the daily tasks done in the kitchen.

It is extremely easy to cut, drill and shape the tiles, which means that the stoneware can be adapted to any needs and demands in places like kitchens.

The high temperatures used in producing the tiles makes the surface of the stoneware resistant to heat sources, which means that hot dishes can be placed on top of it without any fear.
Stoneware slabs does not absorb liquids, it does not retain dirt and odours are not absorbed.

It is a low absorption ceramic product that has high resistance and can be used anywhere.

This is a very important characteristic when you want to choose a product. The durability of the product under conditions of normal use depends on this characteristic.

For full body porcelain materials, abrasion is which means is measured in deep abrasion, the quantity of material pulled off in m3. This should not be confused with PEI, which measures the absorption resistance of glazed products.

Yes. It is the ideal ceramic material for systems like this due to its low thermal expansion coefficient and its high heat transfer capacity.

Yes. Given its resistance to severe temperature variation and especially to frost, which is assured by its practically non-existent porosity, preventing water from penetrating into the tile.

Margres has several products that are perfectly suitable for ventilated walls, both technically and aesthetically.

You must bear in mind that polished materials are more delicate by nature. They should not be used in areas where they may come in contact with sand, as there is a very high probability of scratching.

You should always choose anti-slip flooring, with a minimum rating of R10.

Yes, you can. The only consideration should be its anti-slip rating for safety reasons. We recommend a minimum of R11.

When choosing the most suitable flooring for areas where water may accumulate, you should bear in mind the safety of the users. Therefore, the paving should have anti-slip properties. The anti-slip rating should be in proportion to the exposure of the area in question to the elements.

Given its low water absorption level, porcelain stoneware can be used on the inside of swimming pools, whatever the format. You should choose adhesive and mortar that are suitable for swimming pools.

Porcelain stoneware has a low water absorption rate so it is extremely resistant to low temperatures. Technical characteristics indicate a resistance up to -50ºC.

Porcelain stoneware is known for its high mechanical resistance, which means it can be used in garages up to the 60x60 format. You should choose a product with a low anti-slip rating and a colour that does not need much maintenance, as the residue attached to car tyres is quite visible.

Ceramic tiles can be used on top of existing coverings and flooring (ceramic, stone, painted plaster) provided that these are not damaged in such a way as to compromise the stability of the new material (tiles coming loose, cracking). Some materials may require additional treatment before going ahead with the new application.

Both can be used in any type of indoor environment.

Yes. Please use the link below to download the handbook:
https://www.margres.com/upload/1674_Manual_Tecnico_Linea_pt.pdf

Porcelain stoneware is much harder than granite so you should use appropriate tools. If you use tools for granite, you will damage the parts and the tools.

This is one of the most difficult cuts in any construction work. Whenever possible, you should cut the cistern protection housing to size, apply the ceramic tile with the marks for the location of the housing and use a manual angle grinder to make the cut only after the material has dried.
This technique minimises the risk or breaking parts and is easier to do.
If this is not possible, make the cut using a manual angle grinder with a continuous alloy disc for porcelain stoneware. If the cut is less than 4 cm from the edge of the tile, you may have to use a water jet cutter.

For manual drilling, use a continuous alloy diamond bit, of a suitable diameter. Drill slowly and do not use the hammer drill function.

The choice of the most suitable colour depends on your own taste. Our catalogues just make a suggestion.

Consult the manufacturer for specific applications (swimming pools, industrial kitchens, hospitals, etc.).

Material should never be used without joints as this could have serious consequences for the entire construction project, such as tiles coming loose.

When using rectified materials, you should have a minimum joint of 2 mm, using the corresponding tile spacer for better tile alignment.

For non-rectified materials, use a joint corresponding to 2x the calibre. The minimum joint may have to be widened in specific applications, such as large surfaces, walls and patios. In these cases, the joint calculation should be made by a professional.

As porcelain stoneware is a very resistant material, you must use suitable tools when making cuts. We recommend using a waterjet saw with a minimum power of 1.5 hp and a continuous alloy disc for porcelain stoneware. Take care not to force the tile as you run the risk of breaking it and damaging the machine.

Generally speaking, you should use adhesive with mixed bonding agents (C2, according to the adhesive classifications).
See the table attached to the Margres Technical Handbook to select the most appropriate adhesive for each format and support. If in doubt, check with the manufacturer. When gluing the tiles, you should always use the double adhesive technique - adhesive on the substrate and adhesive on the tile.

In order to prevent tiles from coming loose, the following joints should be used:

1 - Laying joints - regular space left between two tiles.

The minimum recommended joints are:
Natural Finish - 4 mm joint
Rectified, honed, polished, semi-polished finishes - 2 mm joint
The minimum recommended joints for outdoor coverings are 5 mm.
The grouting of the laying joints should be done diagonally to the joints.

2- Fractioning joints - subdividing the covering into smaller areas and relieving the tension generated.

The maximum recommended areas for flooring and paving are:
Indoor: 32 m2, or when one of the sides is over 8 linear metres.
Outdoor: 25 m2, or when one of the sides is over 5 linear metres.
The maximum recommended areas for coverings are:
Indoor: 32 m2, or when one of the sides is over 8 metres long.
Outdoor: there should be horizontal fractioning every 3 metres, and vertical fractioning every 5 metres.

3 - Perimeter or corner joints - these are used when the plane changes, whether when walls and flooring meet or at corners in walls.

4 - Structural joints - regular space between two structures, envisaged in the project.

If brightly coloured or dark grouts are to be used, due to pigmentation, as a precautionary measure you should do a test with spare parts to check the performance of these.
The grouts in these colours require more careful and more frequent cleaning during laying.
When using products with rough or structured surfaces, you should apply a protector (e.g. Protector 060 from Weber) before regrouting.

Use grout with antifungal action to prevent or clean fungi that darken tile joints, (e.g. Weber.Color Premium) and, after drying, apply a waterproofing product (damp protection) - e.g. Weber.hydrofuge P, or any other water-based product.
Maintenance should be carried out every 4 years and this product should be applied again.

The joints should be cleaned when the grouting begins to harden. Do not use too much water when cleaning as this causes dispersal of the pigment and early discoloration of the grout.
After 24 hours, do a general clean-up using a dry or damp cloth.

In order to guarantee greater resistance of the grout to humidity, it should be waterproofed (e.g. Weber.hydrofuge B) 2 or 3 weeks after grouting.

Use white rubber mallets for tapping the tiles: do not use black rubber mallets as they can leave marks.

To achieve good adherence, you must glue the tiles with a mixed bonding glue, i.e. cement and resin, which gives good chemical adherence. Traditional adhesives do not provide sufficient adherence for porcelain stoneware.

Use a suitable tile adhesive in order to achieve good adherence:
Always double glue, i.e. spread the adhesive on the support and on the back of the tile. The adhesive on the back of the tile should be perpendicular to the direction the adhesive is spread on the substrate to ensure the entire area of the tile is covered. When laying the tiles, place them slightly out of position and then move them into their final position with a slight movement of your fingers. Use a white rubber mallet to ensure that threads of adhesive have been eliminated.
Do not use black rubber mallets as they can leave marks. After laying, do a general clean-up to remove any excess adhesive from the tiles, preventing this from hardening and making the final clean-up more difficult.

Link to tables with examples*:

(*) The products of the companies mentioned are merely examples. There are many other companies, besides those mentioned, that have similar quality products.

Porcelain stoneware is characterised by its low water absorption and high mechanical resistance. You should thus use an electric cutter with a water-cooled diamond disc or a manual carbide-tipped cutter.

At Margres, all of our ranges are suitable for large projects.

Margres ceramic tiles are designed to respond to the most demanding requirements. Certain ranges may need to be selected as they are the most suitable for the specifications of each project.

Margres has a wide range of outdoor finishes that combine aesthetic and technical demands for this type of application.

Yes. Except for specific situations where it is mandatory to use anti-slip materials, according to local legislation.

No. For daily cleaning, use water (preferably hot) and a neutral detergent. For rustic and anti-slip finishes, you should use a hard brush to remove the dirt that accumulates in the rough surface.

Products with an acid composition do not attack porcelain stoneware (except those that contain hydrofluoric acid, which attacks glazed porcelain stoneware). In addition, products such as these can affect other decorative or constructive elements, which is why they must be used carefully and always according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

For everyday cleaning, use an all-purpose detergent, bearing in mind the concentrations indicated by the manufacturer.

There are 2 types of scratches: if it is a metallic scratch you can use undiluted DETERDEK and scrub with a scouring pad.

Deeper scratches, caused by the action of sands, cannot be removed.

Use a detergent with high degreasing power and wash according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

The use of brighteners or wax is not recommended because, over time, it will come loose from the ceramic tile, producing undesirable aesthetic effects which are difficult to remove.
Flooring with a natural finish has no shine and this aspect should be taken into account when you are choosing your flooring.

The use of adhesive and cement during application produces residue on the surface which is not visible to the naked eye. This residue creates a highly-absorbent film on top of the ceramic tile and, over time, this will become much more difficult to clean.

It should be cleaned with HG Acid (available at DIY shops such as AKI, Maxmat or Leroy Merlin) or DETERDEK from FILA (sold by construction materials suppliers) in the concentrations recommended by the manufacturers.

At the end of the project the tiles should be cleaned of all dirt, using chemicals suitable to the types of waste. It is important to follow the instructions for using these products and to be absolutely certain that they do not contain hydrofluoric acid. We recommend testing these products beforehand on a spare tile. It is essential that all the waste and the chemical products used are completely removed, washing the area several times with clean water. The surface waterproofing layer should be removed from polished tiles in order to restore the original shine of the tiles. We recommend that a sponge and an appropriate detergent, alcohol or cellulose thinner be used to remove this layer.

Maintenance and cleaning of Margres porcelain stoneware is very practical and easy. Use water (preferably lukewarm) and a neutral detergent for daily cleaning. We recommend using this detergent sparingly so that it can be completely removed after cleaning with clean water, preferably tepid.

A hard brush should be used on rustic and anti-slip finishes to remove the dirt that accumulates in the rough surface.

We recommend placing mats in the areas with more foot traffic for good conservation of the product, particularly in areas connecting to the outside, in order to avoid sand, which is harmful to any kind of flooring, being carried around. Do not use acid or abrasive cleaning products on decorated products, in particular those with glass or metallised gold or platinum, as such cleaning products may damage the decoration.

Use grout with antifungal action (e.g. Weber.Color Premium) to prevent or clean fungi that darken tile joints and, after drying, apply a waterproofing product (damp protection) - e.g. Weber.hidrofuge P, or any other water-based product. Maintenance should be carried out every 4 years and this product should be applied again.

Weber.Antimousse, for example, can be used to clean joints without this protection (applied with a paintbrush). Wait one hour to brush the area and then clean with plenty of water. If necessary, repeat the operation.

When a product that causes stains (coffee, olive oil, varnish, etc.) is spilt, this should be cleaned up immediately with a damp cloth. If the product is allowed to dry on the floor, this may cause staining which can only be removed using a product suitable for this purpose.

Link to tables with examples*:

(*) The products of the companies mentioned are merely examples. There are many other companies besides these that have quality products.

Yes. This is a diluted solution of sodium hypochlorite with a basic pH and does not affect this type of material.

When it is polished, porcelain stoneware has surface micro-porosity which makes it less resistant to stains. Margres porcelain stoneware is factory-treated with a sealant to prevent this problem. This sealant protects the surface of the material during application and ensures waterproofing to protect against staining during use.

When the project has been completed, the tiles should be cleaned of all dirt and the surface waterproofing layer removed in order to restore the original sheen of the tiles. To do this, we recommend cleaning with a slightly abrasive brush or scouring pad, using a neutral detergent or cellulose thinner solution or by applying a specific product.

Link to tables with examples*:

(*) The products of the companies mentioned are merely examples. There are many other companies, besides those mentioned, that have similar quality products.

Yes. The high performance techniques of porcelain stoneware, in particular in terms of resistance and cleaning properties make this material suitable for places where hygiene and cleanliness are essential.

Note: the use of the 3x1 m format means that there are very few joints, ensuring maximum hygiene.

The plates are only 3,5 mm thick, which makes them very flexible, light and easy to manage. This thinness is the innovative aspect that extends the fields of application. When the plates leave the kiln, they measure 1000x3000 mm.

Formats available:
- 3,5 mm (coverings; indoor);
- 5,5 mm (coverings and flooring; indoor and outdoor);
- 6 mm (coverings and flooring; indoor and outdoor);
- 6,5 mm (coverings and flooring; indoor and outdoor);

As it is so light, 3,5millimeter stoneware slabs is very easy to transport. The weight of a 100x100 cm, 3,5 mm thick, laminated plate is 7.8 kg.

If you want to use laminated stoneware as a covering or flooring outdoors, we recommend using the 3.5 mm version. We advice to get a prior opinion from the Technical Department.

It is a very thin produced using an innovative system, of cutting edge technology and high performance. It is produced in 300x100 cm plates, without the use of moulds. This stoneware is compacted at a pressure of 15,000 tonnes and the fully automated cutting line produces the different final formats.

Stoneware slabs is available in three different versions: 3,5 millimeter, 5,5 millimeter, 6 millimeter and 6,5 millimeter and comes in two ranges: Kerlite and Linea.